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Zgorigrad – the town behind the mountain

Photo: Veneta Nikolova
The northwestern parts of the Balkan Mountain Range (called in Bulgarian Stara Planina Mountain) are not particularly welcoming in winter. During that time of the year, the biting frost, the sullen skies and the dense fogs are an indispensable part of the mountain scenery.
There is, however, a place in the Balkan Mountains that does not succumb to local weather peculiarities. Near the town of Vratza, at the foot of lofty masses of rocks, the tiny mountain village of Zgorigrad is nestled. Its snug little houses are situated in terrace-like patterns along the two banks of the Leva River whose serpentines are winding through the fairytale beauty of the valley. In winter, when neighboring towns and villages are bound by the cold, snow and fogs, the weather here is warm, the sun is shining and local guest houses are crowded. For many tourists from France, Great Britain, Germany, USA, and even Japan, Zgorigrad is a synonym of warm sunshine, home comfort, and cheerful mood.

© Photo: Veneta Nikolova



In this part of the Balkan range, the mountain is crude and unwelcoming, yet it enchants visitors with its unsubdued harsh beauty. The scenery here changes with each step. The rising clouds and mists unveil a view of the stony galleys of the mountain slopes where the slanting rays of the sun fall. One can either roam along the paths winding along the edges of steep precipices, or indulge in a quiet contemplation of nature, sitting on a tree trunk. A breathtaking view spreads before the eyes of the spectator – the folded rocks soaring high in the skies, the herds of wild horses racing along the pastures chased only by the winds. And one can relish the all-pervading feeling of freedom and harmony with nature!

One of the most remarkable nature phenomena in this region is the mountain pass “Vratzata” near the village of Zgorigrad. Its rocky peaks soar high in the sky, turning into an insurmountable barrier for cold winds and winter fogs enveloping like a cocoon the town of Vratza on the other side of the mountain pass. Thus, the residents of the small mountain village of Zgorigrad enjoy a mild and sunny winter, just like their predecessors, the ancient Thracians, did, who inhabited the region near the mountain pass “Vratzata” more than 2 thousand years ago. According to some historians, the name of the village of Zgorigrad has Thracian roots, literally meaning “the town behind the mountain”. Nowadays, the rocks overhanging the village attract like a magnet many rock climbers, lovers of nature and photographers. Numerous climbing and hiking routes have been made, and some of them are also accessible during the winter.

The village of Zgorigrad itself is a true haven of tranquility and beauty! It cannot boast the old-time charm of Bulgarian ethnographic museum-towns and National Revival period villages, but its geographic location is magnificent, and the owners of local guest houses will welcome you as a close relative, showering you with countless offers for strolls and fun in the recesses of this part of the Balkan Range.

Organized tourism in Zgorigrad started in 2000 when the first family hotels opened their doors. At that time, the first group of foreign tourists arrived in the town – a group of French mountaineers led by a popular Sofia tour agency. The guests remained very satisfied and next year new groups of tourists arrived eager to experience the magic of the Balkan Mountain.

“We welcome guests from all around the world”, Roza Nikolova, owner of a guesthouse, says. In her opinion, the summer season is the busiest time of the year. Then, the mountain is most welcoming, and tourists can roam for days in its winding picturesque paths and enjoy the frothy waterfalls, eerie rock edges and colorful meadows. In the winter, however, when mountain slopes are quiet under the snow cover, and the fire is cozily cracking in the fireplace, a vacation spent in Zgorigrad has its many charms, as well. The town offers delicious meals prepared with fresh vegetables and a bouquet of mountain herbs. Roza and her fellow guesthouse owners from Zgorigrad enchant their guests with a rich variety of local culinary specialties:

“I serve my guests a local dish called “lyutika”, Roza Nikolova says. “This dish is prepared with roasted peppers that are crushed in a wooden bowl, then goat milk cheese, boiled eggs, and parsley is added, and it turns into a very delicious dish. Our region is really popular with its numerous recipes for preparing lyutika – either with roasted tomatoes, with beans, with potatoes, and etc. Foreigners adore it. We also serve them fried pickles and other specialties typical for our region. The good thing is that we use only organically grown ingredients. Some of them, such as the cheese, milk, and meat, we buy from local producers.”

14 routes for hiking have been made in the vicinity of Zgorigrad. Nearby is also one of the most famous tourist sights in the region - the Ledenika Cave equipped with lighting and paths for visitors.

Translated by: Rossitsa Petcova

По публикацията работи: Veneta Nikolova


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