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Bulgarians knew the rakiya as early as 14 c.

In all probability Bulgarians knew the rakiya long before other European nations.
Photo: Veneta Nikolova

Bulgarians drank the local rakiya (brandy) long before it appeared on the table of other European nations. This claim derives from a recent archeological find in Bulgaria’s medieval capital Veliko Tarnovo, Central Bulgaria. During digs on Trapezitsa Hill dotted with ruins from the Middle Ages, archeologist Konstantin Totev came across a fragment from a 14 c. vessel with an inscription including the word “rakinya”. There is hardly any doubt that whoever wrote it, had in mind the alcoholic beverage very popular in the Balkans, rakiya, consumed traditionally by Bulgarians too. Well, the curious thing is that the inscription is among the earliest evidence found in the world about its use, researchers claim.

© Photo: bnt.bg

„At the feast I drank… rakinya” – this graffiti in Old Bulgarian found on a ceramic pot from 14 c. is about to transform our notions regarding the route of the “fiery water” in time. Probably the Bulgarian aristocrats, the boyars, drank rakiya 200 years before the beverage gained its European popularity. By the way, people knew about the process of distillation in ancient times. It is supposed that the brandy was actually invented by the Arabs, and the word “rakiya” derived from “arak” in Arabic. However, the Arabic drink is characterized with its anise taste, unlike the Bulgarian version made primarily from grapes, plums or other fruit. We should note here that the rakiya in its varieties is found in all Balkan countries with different but very similar names such as „raki”, „raka”, „rachiu” etc. It is claimed that the enchanting drink was imported into Bulgaria during the plague epidemics during the Middle Ages and was initially used to treat the Black Death. Our forefathers however soon appreciated its unique taste and its property to heighten the mood. No wonder then that the rakiya became widely popular growing into an indelible part of the local habits, ways and folklore. Today the beverage is consumed often, and this is not for nothing. Judging from the medieval find on Trapezitsa Hill the Bulgarians were among the first Europeans who came to know and appreciate its sweetness. „We found the vessel with the unconventional message while we were digging a necropolis of a 14 c. church”, said Prof. Konstantin Totev who leads the digs in the northern section of the Trapesitsa stronghold.

© Photo: Veneta Nikolova

A view to the historical Trapezitsa Hill in Veliko Tarnovo where the vessel was found.
„This is a fragment from a small bowl or a cup made with the celebrated sgraffito technique practiced by Tarnovo potters. This technique adds to the pots quite characteristic decoration depicting plants, humans and animals. The most curious thing of all is that once the vessel was put to use, an inscription was scribbled on it, ‘At the feast I drank… rakinya’. It is however not known what the feast was. Such messages however are typical of various metal vessels and sets inscribed by their owners. Now this is the first time that we have come across a text – and a very old text at that – containing the word ‘rakiya’. We suppose that the vessel’s owner was either a citizen or a military buried in the necropolis to the south of this large church.”

© Photo: Veneta Nikolova

A typical Bulgarian rakiya distiller.
According to historian Bozhidar Dimitrov there is other evidence about the use of rakiya in the Bulgarian lands. One of them is dated to 1372 and is found in a report by Turkish military leader Lala Shahin Pasha to the command of the Ottoman Empire. In the report the Bulgarian soldiers are described as large, with moustaches and very skilled in combat, as well as used to drinking wine and rakiya – or to sum up jolly fellows. History and archeology will be the key trump cards of Bulgaria in its talks with the European Commission for the recognition of rakiya as a traditional Bulgarian beverage. The fans of this popular product are looking forward to its Brussels’ patent, In this way alone its excise tax will be halved meaning a considerably lower end-price. The trouble is that other Balkan countries have also been running for the rights on rakiya. For the local fans of the “water of life” however there is no doubt that the rakiya is a purely Bulgarian invention that outshines all its varieties worldwide. It suffices to try some homemade grape or plum rakiya to get convinced!

English version: Daniela Konstantinova


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