The Red Wall biosphere reserve is situated at the heart of the Rhodope Mountain, above the Bachkovo Monastery near the town of Assenovgrad. A specially marked route goes from the monastery to the virgin parts of the Central Rhodope, among green mountains, crossed by several rivers, Chaya the biggest of those. One can see picturesque ravines and waterfalls there. The apron of Sushitsa is the most difficult part of the reserve for accession, surrounded by steep rocky slopes with a height up to 800 m. The river’s curves form a mysterious and magnificent canyon. The area is among the richest in Bulgaria, regarding caves. The highest waterfall in the Rhodope can be seen on the Slivov Dol river, it is called Slivodolsko Padalo /50m/. The Thracian sanctuaries of Belintash and Karadjov Kamak are situated close to each other in this area too, adding more to its charm.

The Red Wall is the largest one out of 4 biosphere reserves in the Rhodope Mountain. This year it marks its 50th anniversary. It was included in UNESCO’s Man and the Biosphere Programme back in 1977, due to its rich biodiversity. The reserve was named after the highest bluff in this mountain – the Red Wall, which looks at northwest and flashes in red in the evenings as the sun sets. This is a typical botanic reserve, Mrs. Maria Mihailova, a biodiversity expert from the local Plovdiv-based environmental inspectorate told a Radio Bulgaria reporter.

“Some 645 vascular plant species have been found in this reserve, or some 18 percent of the overall number of flora species in Bulgaria. The Red Wall is ranked first among all the reserves researched so far, regarding biodiversity. 38 of the species in the reserve are included in Bulgaria’s Red Book, while 21 of those are endemic for the Balkan Peninsula. The

most beautiful Bulgarian orchid – the lady’s-slipper orchid can be spotted in this reserve only. It has the biggest blossom and is beautifully colored in yellow and dark red. The reserve is the remotest southern field of this species in Europe, it is quite hidden, situated in one of the century-old beechen forests. However, many other orchids can be spotted around the Red Wall – 27 out of some 50 species, common for the Rhodope Mountain.”

Other rare species in a state of endemism can be found in the reserve, such as Rhodope Tulip, Rhodope Narcissus-flowered anemone, Morina persica, yew, etc. There is also a very curious relict plant - Haberlea rhodopaensis.

“This relict species originates from the Tertiary Period, when the climate was warm and wet,” Mrs. Mihailova goes on to say. “Then, during the Quaternary glaciations the range of this species tore apart and got narrower. The feature of this plant, allowing it to fall into anabiosis is a very interesting one – under poor climate conditions it simply reduces its vital functions to the minimum, fades out. Afterwards it can restore its vitality again.”

© Photo: wikipedia.org

The tree species of oak, hornbeam, manna ash and field maple form the lower forests of the reserve. Those, situated higher in the mountain consist of beech, aspen, hornbeam and others. Evergreen forests of fir and Scotch pine trees can be seen at the highest parts of the reserve. Its rivers are full of trout, even otter can be spotted in some of them, like Sushitsa for instance. There are bears, wolves, deer and wild goats in the area, which is also a paradise for diurnal birds of prey and nocturnal raptors.

“As many as 63 bird species inhabit the reserve, 17 of those are included in Bulgaria’s Red Book,” the expert explains. “Diurnal birds of prey species are interesting: common kestrel, booted eagle, imperial eagle, buzzard and honey-buzzard. There are many other bird species too. The reptiles are represented mainly by wall and green lizards, large toads etc. Some species, typical for the Mediterranean can be found here too – Greek stream frog, Macedonian lizard and others.”

The double-horned bee orchid

The security level of the reserve is the highest possible. It can be visited only along 5 tourist paths, without stepping aside from those. A project to the tune of EUR 390,000 has kicked off as of this year at the regional environmental inspectorate for protection and sustainable management of the Red Wall reserve and for maintenance of another one – Izgorialoto Giune. The project is funded by the Environment OP. It envisages the development of a management plan, restoration and improvement of the tourist infrastructure, attraction of public care for the protection and popularization of this territory. A new inventory of the biodiversity will be done within the frameworks of the project that should outline the changes that have taken place in it over the past 50 years.

English version: Zhivko Stanchev

Photos: courtesy to the Plovdiv-based environmental protection inspectorate