Eastern Rhodope Mountains – the unknown part of Bulgaria

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Eastern Rhodope Mountain is one of the places people fall in love with from first glance and become dependent on its magnetic power and striking beauty and long to return there again and again. For many historians and archeologists this place is a cradle of different civilizations. If you chose the Eastern Rhodope Mountain for you tourist destination you will not need a time engine to go back thousands of years back in time and thread in the steps of the ancient ancestors and touch their life style and mystique beliefs.

If you are lucky enough, you can see deer drinking water at the dam-lake.

The oldest settlement on these lands was discovered in the center of the modern town of Kardzali. It dates back to the 6th millennium BC. One of the earliest paved streets covered with river stones is situated there. Many impressive exponents representing life in the Eastern Rhodope Mountain from antiquity to present days can be seen in the Regional Historical Museum in Kardzali. Almost every span of this sacred mountain hides finds linked with the Ancient Thracians who once lived on our lands.

Perperikon soars on a peak in a locality, known among local people as the Ghosts’ mountain.

Currently archeologists continue to explore one of the most significant archeological complexes in Bulgaria-Perperikon. This ancient and sacred town is situated over a mount in a locality known among the local population as Djin Tepesi (The ghosts’ mountain). Earliest traces of human activity date back to the late stone-copper age in the end of the 5th and the beginning of the 6th millennium BC when people started to honor and present gifts to the gods. Many unique items such as fragments of religious tables, parts of idols, a pot resembling a partridge, where opiates were probably kept and used by the priests to get into trance, were found there. An item you must see by all means is the famous alter of God Dyonysus. The ancient Thracians used it for a special ritual-they used to pour wine over it. The flames that burst after this ritual were used for fortune telling. Visitors should also see the stone throne, carved into the rock. As the Thracian made a cult of the sun, the throne faces east and this place is lit by first sun beams each morning. A basilica dating back to a later period was also found on the highest part of the hill.

The religious complex Tatul is another object which is a must see in this region. One of the hypotheses reads that it is 6 millennia old and is even older that the Pyramids in Egypt. The complex consists of an ancient pagan sanctuary and a medieval fortress. One of the scientific hypotheses reads that it was the sanctuary of Orpheus and is even the place where the mythical singer was buried. Tour guide Marina Kutelova tells RB about the most-interesting finds in this megalithic complex.

“A very beautiful statuette of Orpheus was found here. He was depicted in an upright position. His left hand is bending on a lyre and his right one is holding a lamella for pulling the strings of the lyre. The figure is 10 centimeters tall and was very crafty mould during the Roman period. A fragment of a clay altar and a priest scepter were also found there. Some coins dating back to the Roman period were also found. We can see Orpheus surrounded by wild animals on one of the coins. On another coin, Orpheus stands over the rocks. A girl which personifies Queen Rhodope can be seen on another coin. She is holding in her hand a unique flower-the Haberlea Rhodopensis. The flower has the unique property to stay in a dry condition for 31 months and revive again when the conditions become favorable. The legend has it that the blood drops of Orpheus made this flower germinate in this region.”

Breathtaking view of the setting sun which covers the waters of the dam-lake in gold.

The ancient Thracians had exceptional knowledge in astronomy. This is proved by the archeological and astronomical researches of the rock sanctuary Harman Kaya. Two plots with concentric semicircles carved into the rocks were found there. They were probably used by the Thracians to measure the annual cycle and for the location of the winter and the summer equilibrium. Well-preserved monasteries from the medieval and the Ottoman periods can also be seen in the Eastern Rhodope Mountains. The medieval monastery Saint Joan the Forerunner was built on the right bank of River Arda in the town of Kardzali. The one of its kind wooden mosque in Bulgaria known as the Mosque of the seven ladies is situated in the village of Podkova.

The construction of the wooden mosque was made without a single nail.

“This wooden mosque is a national cultural monument”, says Marina Kutelova. “It was built in 1438. The legend has it that it was constructed by seven girls whose beloved ones died during a war. Then they decided to devote themselves to God. They sold all their belongings and bought huge wooden planks and built the mosque in one night. It is interesting to know that hey did not use even a single nail for this construction. Later, the girls vanished.”

Believers who come to pray here will meet you with open arms.

The wooden mosque is functioning even nowadays. If you happen to meet believers during their service, they will meet you with open arms and will serve you food. Another unforgettable experience in the Rhodope Mountains is the meeting with the local people who are extremely hospitable and kind-hearted. Along with its ancient history and hospitable people, the Eastern Rhodope Mountain impresses people with its incredible natural phenomena. Some of the rocks are shaped in some fantastic forms and bear the names: the stone wedding, the stone mushrooms, the turtles, the crocodile, etc. Fans of extreme sports can practice climbing, kayaking and river rafting there. River Arda, artificial lakes Kardzhali and Studen Kladenets provide perfect conditions for kayaking and rafting. There, you can enjoy many picturesque views and see some birds such as black stork, heron and loon. If you are lucky enough, you can come across some deer later in the evening. One would definitely hold his breath when looking at the setting sun which covers the waters of the dam lake in gold. You can not leave this place without trying the traditional Rhodope cuisine made of natural products. Barbecue, hominy, home-made yoghurt, cheese and yellow cheese are some of the culinary specialties which will tempt you there. The region is famous with the great variety of cheese pastries made there. You should definitely try the popular “Soaked cheese pastry”.

Stone Mushrooms natural phenomenon

“The filo pastry is soaked in hot water and then cold water and covered with melted butter”, explains Marina. “The stuffing is made of meat, usually chicken. This pastry is always made of 10 layers of filo pastry. It is very delicious. We organized a pastry festival several years ago at this place, because of the great variety of the cheese pastries made here such as Turkish specialties, the classic cheese pastry and the Thracian cheese pastry whose recipe was brought by refugees from White Sea Thrace”, concludes Marina Kutelova.

English version: Kostadin Atanasov

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Eastern Rhodope Mountains – the unknown part of Bulgaria

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