The traditional feast days Varvara, Sava and Nikulden fall on the dates when the Christian Orthodox church honours the memory of Great Martyr Varvara (St. Barbara) on 4 December, St. Sava (Sabbas) on 5 December and St. Nikolay (Nicholas) on 6 December.

In this edition of Folk Studio Albena Bezovska tells you what kind of food is eaten on these days and what ritual meaning it conveys.

As with most folklore-Orthodox traditions, the feasts of Varvara, Sava and Nikulden bear the hallmarks of pagan rituals that were probably performed on or close to these same dates in pre-Christian times. The way tradition views the three saints differs significantly from their Christian Orthodox passionals.

In many towns and villages of central western and part of southwestern Bulgaria, the feast of St. Varvara also goes by the name of Woman’s Christmas. On this day young lasses, clad in traditional attire, would make the rounds of the village homes, singing and chanting blessings for health and fertility. They would carry pouches for the gifts they are given. The women of the house would bake fresh unleavened loaves of bread. Unleavened bread was only baked on special occasions – birth of a child, Christmas Eve or as a way to fend off certain diseases. The St. Varvara bread is made “for health” – most for all for the children, but also for the entire household and the farm animals. While they were still warm the women would spread honey or fruit jelly over the loaves, then go and stand in front of the gates or at a crossroads to offer passers-by bread. And each passer-by would cross himself, break off a piece of the loaf and bless it with the words: “God give life and health to you, your offspring, your stock, to one and all!” The same bread is baked for “Granny Measles” and a table would be laid out for her with different kinds of pulse, again sweetened with honey. It was believed that the beans and the grain would mollify the old woman and keep her away from children.

In some towns and villages of southeastern Bulgaria the three consecutive days dedicated to the saints Varvara, Sava and Nikolay also go by the name of Wolf Days. It is believed that Varvara and Sava are two lame wolves straggling along after the pack. In other regions Varvara and Sava are said to be two sisters. The first brings diseases and the second banishes them. That is why Sava is considered to be the more dangerous of the two. Yet there is another belief that is the exact opposite, Varvara being the evil sister scattering grains of ice over the cornfields. The younger and kinder Sava follows in her tread, beseeching her to have mercy. In Bulgarian tradition St. Sava is also connected with fertility. According to popular belief bread, kneaded on this day in a certain way will help childless women conceive. The oldest woman of the house had to be present when the ritual bread was kneaded. The young bride would sift the flour, holding the sieve upside down, while the grandmother of the house would chant: “Turn the sieve around to turn your belly around!” The two sisters would prepare the food for the guests their brother, St. Nikolay would be receiving. December 5, the feast day of St. Sava, was in fact eclipsed by the following day – Nikulden, a major church as well as folklore feast day, so December 5 was the day when the Nikulden food was prepared.

Ritual loaves were made for Nikulden in all shapes and sizes. Next to the traditional stuffed carp, these loaves were a must on the feast day of this much revered saint – the lord of the sea, of gales and tempests. The loaves baked for Nikulden were also made for other rituals – for example on the day of St. Michael the Archangel, at Christmas Eve, or for oblations – personal or communal. The wheat for the Nikulden rolls and for all ritual loaves had to be prepared beforehand, in summer, when the biggest and cleanest ears of wheat were selected. The wheat was then separated from the chaff, washed in the river, dried and stored away. It was then ground into flour and sifted using a dense sieve, sometimes three sieves were used. From time immemorial, the diet of Bulgarians has featured rye, barley, oats, maize, millet but they did not go into the making of ritual bread. In some parts of the country bread was baked that peopled called St. Nikola or just Saint. The ribnik (derived from the word riba, or fish) is a dish that is popular in many regions of Bulgaria – dough-wrapped and stuffed carp, with the pastry decorated the same way as the ritual loaves. In some towns and villages people would make what they called “fish church”. The Nikulden bread and the baking dish with the stuffed carp (ribnik) would be taken to church. The priest would thurify the ritual food which would then be taken back home and the entire family would take their places at the table. In other parts, the priests would go round the houses themselves and thurify the food on the spot. Once the table was set it was not cleared all day. And the house threw its doors open to neighbours, relatives or just passers-by.

Even in our day Nikulden is celebrated with much pomp and circumstance, especially by families with members named Nikola, Nikolina, Nikolay etc., because 6 of December is their name day.

English version: Milena Daynova