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Urban aesthetics and maritime livelihood – life in the ancient city of Anhialo

Photo: pomorietourism.bg

The resort towns along Bulgaria’s Black Sea coast can be broadly categorized into two types: modern ones, characterized by their lively and colorful streets, and port cities with a rich history. Various settlers have passed through these port towns, each leaving a piece of their heritage. Pomorie falls into the second category of cosmopolitan settlements. It was founded in the late 5th century BC under the name Anchialo (meaning "near the salt" in Greek). A large part of its inhabitants were Thracians. However, its location between the Greek colonies of Apollonia Pontica and Mesambria Pontica also brought Byzantine influence to the local population.

From its founding until the early 20th century, Pomorie was one of the most important Black Sea towns in the Bulgarian lands. The residents of Pomorie led a rich and varied life long before the construction of numerous beautiful hotels that welcome thousands of tourists during the summer. They were very skilled fishermen and wine makers and practiced some now-forgotten crafts such as salt extraction from sea water. The city thrived thanks to the hard work of its locals and the maritime trade they engaged in.


Once you find yourself in the old part of Pomorie, you will notice the architecture of the historic houseswhich are located almost next to the seashore. Although only 9 buildings survived the devastating fire of 1906, they provide a glimpse into the appearance of ancient Anchialo, which has left its mark on present-day Pomorie.


To take a more detailed look behind the thick walls of the historic houses, we visit the Pomorie Museum of History, where an authentic reconstruction of a rich Anchialo home has been made. "Although the locals like to say they have Greek ancestry, it turns out that this is not always the case", explains Anelia Grigorova, an ethnographer at the Pomorie Museum of History.

Anelia Grigorova

"Many civilizations have passed through here, and each has left its mark. Unlike the interior of Bulgaria, the population of Pomorie had the privilege of engaging in a specific livelihood. Salt production is very specific, considering that the quality of Anchialo salt was exceptionally high.The local population enjoyed a special, privileged status. The local young men were not conscripted into the Turkish army but stayed here. There is no information about any significant clashes between Turks and Greeks. The local residents were also engaged in wine-making. Although the wine varieties were quite different until the 19th century, they may have existed since the time of the Thracians. We know that they cultivated grape varieties that could be transported by sea. The Greek community was famous for its excellent trading skills. Later, a disease called phylloxera affected the vineyards, leading to the disappearance of the old grape varieties''. 

The building that houses the museum is a two-storey Greek girls' school. The museum is not strictly specialized as ethnographic or archaeological.

The Museum of History - Pomorie

 More than 800 houses burned down during the great fire of 1906, says the ethnographer and added: ''Today, we do not have such an authentic house in which we can showcase the livelihoods and way of life of people from the past, and the only surviving houses are privately owned."

"We have a small architectural reserve called Old Houses of Pomorie. It is located at the very tip of the peninsula, with a beautiful view of the lighthouse and the so-called shallow sea. During the fire, these houses formed a cordon and protected the church ''Transfiguration of the Lord'', which is one of the oldest authentic churches in the town. We're talking about nine ancient Anhialo houses. 


The eaves of these houses are very small, because there is a risk of strong winds blowing towards the shore, which could overturn entire roofs. The wooden cladding was meant to protect against moisture and winds. The first floor was usually built of stone and served various agricultural purposes. Wine barrels, various fishing gear and other items were stored there''.

A typical ancient house from Pomorie

In the so-called Greek families in Anhialo, the male family members were responsible for the household's livelihood. They worked tirelessly from morning till night as fishermen and salt farmers. During the rest of the time, the men practiced agriculture, producing their own grain and wine. The women kept their home neat and clean. They looked after their children and cared about the way they look. These were urban-type women, usually much younger than their husbands, and this has its explanation", ethnographer Anelia Grigorova went on to say and added:


This is because there was a certain order-before a son in the family could marry, his sisters had to get married first.The local families were very wealthy. The women looked good because they were able to shop from abroad. They also took part in urban entertainments. They organized parties and gathered for holidays and name days.


Their homes were open to guests, but the Greek women welcomed them only with a spoonful of fig or cherry jam, which contrasts with the lavish hospitality known in Bulgarian households. However, some women were skilled makers of the so-called Brussels lace and the point lace. 


Such exhibits are kept in the local museum. Exquisite paintings on tablecloths and cushions from the 1960s and the so-called headboard paintings have also been preserved. Everything was meant to exude an easy, carefree lifestyle while simultaneously highlighting their adherence to the Christian faith. 


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Published and translated by Kostadin Atanasov

Photos:pomorietourism.bg; Gergana Mancheva; archive



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